Depending on your body weight and the size of your surfboard, you will need to adjust your position on the surfboard so that your toes are close to the edge of the board.
Pull the water backwards along both sides of the board, adjust the breathing rhythm one left and one right, and do not open your arms when you are paddling, which will greatly reduce the efficiency of the stroke.
Swimming is the most basic skill in surfing, and you should put most of your practice in this. How well you can paddle will depend on whether you can catch the waves.
2. Get up: When the wave comes, you have successfully paddled, and when you feel your surfboard push forward and feel the speed increase, we start to get up.
Find your ribs with the palms of your hands, then place them flat on either side of your ribs, supporting your body.
3. Take off: Wait until the speed is fast and you can "take off".
Arms force, prop up the body. Jump onto the surfboard, keeping your feet shoulder-width apart and your spine straight. Bend your knees slightly to absorb some of the bumps and allow you to stand more stable on the board.
Go to the tail of the board, the rear foot is directly above the tail rudder or about half a step in front of the tail rudder; the body is slightly offset back, and the center of gravity is placed on the rear foot; the head turns to the turning direction of the surfboard, and the head drives the shoulders and the hips. The part drives the feet to control the steering of the surfboard. When turning the surfboard in the opposite direction, you can turn your body in the opposite direction according to the key points of the turning action. After the turn, return to the center of the board to continue surfing.