The sea wind pushes the waves, and the gravity of the sea tries to restore the sea to a calm state, so the water particles begin to squeeze each other, generating pressure inside the sea. The water and waves move synchronously, transferring energy. When the waves gradually approach the surfboard, turn the surfboard in the same direction as the waves, try to slide to catch up with the speed of the waves. The surfboard forms an angle with the water, and the pressure generated at the bottom can make the surfboard move quickly on the surface.
Surfboards are sports equipment that people use for surfing. The surfboard originally used was about 5 meters long and weighed 50-60 kilograms. After the Second World War, foamed plastic boards appeared, and their shapes were also improved.
Surfing is a water sport in which athletes stand on surfboards, or use webs, kneeling boards, inflatable rubber mats, rowboats, kayaks, etc. to control the waves. No matter what equipment is used, athletes should have high skills and balance ability, and be good at long-distance swimming in wind and waves. Surfing is a sport in which an athlete lies down or kneels on a surfboard and paddles to a place where the waves are suitable as a starting point. When the waves push the surfboard to slide, the athlete keeps the surfboard standing up in front of the wave crest, with the legs naturally open forward and backward (usually the balance leg is in front and the control leg is behind), the knees slightly bent, and the surfboard moves with the waves and glides quickly.
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