What is the principle of surfing?

The principle of surfing: the sea wind of the sea will transfer energy to the waves, causing the waves to surge. The gravity of the sea tries to restore the sea to a calm state, so the water particles begin to squeeze each other, generating pressure in the sea, and the water and waves move synchronously to transfer energy. When the wave gradually approaches the surfboard, turn the wave to the same direction as the wave and try to slide to catch up with the wave speed. The surfboard forms an angle with the water, and the pressure generated at the bottom can make the surfboard move quickly on the water surface.
Surfing is an extreme sport driven by waves. Originating in Australia, it is an ancient culture of Polynesians. Surfing is the starting point for athletes to lie down or kneel on the surfboard and paddle to a place with suitable waves. When the waves push the surfboard to slide, the athlete keeps the surfboard in front of the wave crest, stands up, naturally stretches his legs back and forth, slightly bends his knees, and follows the waves to slide quickly.