Why are surfers not afraid of being swept away by the water
Because of the buoyancy and power of the water, it will not be washed away by the water. To learn to surf, the problem is how to control the skateboard and keep balance. Usually, the lower the center of gravity, the easier it is to maintain balance, so surfers squat on the skateboard. In addition to squatting, people will naturally open their arms and play a balance role.
A surfer sits on a small board called a surfboard under his feet. The surfboard is like a boat supporting the swimmer in the sea. "When surfing, the athletes lie down on the board first, and use their arms to paddle hard, the board will float in front. After the chessboard runs fast, the athletes must stand up quickly and do everything possible to avoid drifting with the waves. Under the impact of the wind and waves, the surfboard moves forward like an arrow, and the players are supported on the water.
It must be noted that waves are natural, powerful and wild entities, and surfing is one of the most dangerous sports in the world. As a prerequisite for surfing, you need to be able to swim. Most beginners study along the water. There are different surfing competitions every year around the world. When surfing is involved, you must see the size of the waves and many factors. The light is drowning, the heavy is death.
Surfers usually use a thin, long-horsepower cloth board or a short web. Without a board, they can also lift their arms too high to let their whole body surf straight. When surfing, you should take the surfboard to go against the waves and reach the place where the wave crest is very steep. So when the waves are approaching, you should lie on the surfboard and paddle hard and swim to the shore quickly. Therefore, this special way of exercise is not only full of ecstasy, but also makes people feel over-excited. Extreme sports, when people come to the seaside and see the waves, they sincerely feel that surfing is an excellent way to combine concentration, beauty and health care, and slimming.