Principles of Surfing
The principle of surfing: The sea wind transfers energy to the waves, causing the waves to surge. The gravity of the sea tries to make the sea surface return to a calm state. Therefore, water particles begin to squeeze each other, generating pressure inside the sea. The water and waves move synchronously, transferring energy. When the waves gradually lean against the surfboard, they turn the surfboard in the same direction as the waves, try to slide, catch up with the speed of the waves, and form an angle with the water, The pressure generated at the bottom can make the surfboard travel fast on the surface.
Young people want to try it because it is fresh, niche and curious. However, professional coaches and venues are limited, making this sport even more niche. Unlike other sports (badminton, tennis, football), it can be played anywhere and anytime. The public's cognition is also relatively vague. For example, in the United States, surfing is really a very common thing. According to the rules of surfing, one wave can only be played by one person for safety reasons If two people are too close, they may collide with each other. Secondly, the wave robbers will destroy the complete wave wall and make the people who should have surfed have no way to go.
People and surfboards can float on the water. At the beginning, people should lie down on the surfboard and paddle to the place where the current is fast. The surfboard driven by the current moves forward and follows the current. This process is called chasing the waves, or running like a dog, to catch this, because the current is fast in the place where there are waves. The purpose of chasing the waves is to slide down from the high waves at a higher speed.